Part 1: What to Look for and Consider When Researching Your Ingredients

Understanding what’s in your skincare and wellness products is important. With so many brands using buzzwords like “clean,” “natural,” or “organic,” it can be hard to know what’s really good for you. Learning how to research ingredients helps you make smarter choices.

This guide will walk you through how to do it easily and effectively.

1. Purpose & Function: Why Is It in Your Skincare?

Knowing why an ingredient is included in a product helps you decide if it fits your needs. Some suppliers provide vague descriptions like “emulsifier” or “preservative,” but it’s important to dig deeper.

Look for data sheets that outline:

The ingredient’s primary function (moisturising, thickening, etc.).
Scientific studies supporting its benefits.
Potential side effects or limitations.

For example, beeswax is a natural emulsifier and thickener used in balms and creams because it locks in moisture and adds structure.

2. Appearance & Scent: Trust Your Senses

Before using an ingredient, assess its:

Scent – Some ingredients, like coconut oil, have a strong natural aroma, which can affect the final product.
Texture & Consistency – A lightweight serum shouldn’t contain heavy waxes like beeswax, which may make it too thick.

These factors help you determine how the ingredient will perform in your formulation.

3. Usage Rate: How Much is Too Much?

Every ingredient has a recommended usage range to ensure safety and effectiveness. For example:

Essential oils: Typically used at 0.5-2% (higher amounts can cause irritation).
Coconut oil: Can be used up to 100% as a standalone moisturiser.

Cross-reference recommendations with reliable sources like Cosmetics Info and Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) to check safety limits.

For example, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate has different concentration limits in leave-on vs. rinse-off products.

4. Solubility: Water, Oil, or Nothing?

Understanding whether an ingredient dissolves in water or oil is key for creating stable formulations.

Water-soluble ingredients (like Aloe Vera powder) won’t mix into an oil-based serum.
Oil-soluble ingredients (like beef fat) won’t dissolve in water-based products.

Knowing solubility ensures your ingredients blend properly and don’t separate over time.

5. pH Range: Know Your pH Sweet Spot

Certain ingredients only work within a specific pH range. This is crucial for active ingredients like acids and gels. For example:

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is most effective at a pH below 3.5.
Niacinamide works best at a pH of 5-7 and can be less effective in acidic formulas.

Testing pH ensures your products work as intended and remain stable.

6. Melting Point: Don’t Let Things Go Up in Smoke

The melting point of an ingredient affects how you handle and formulate with it.

Beef fat melts at ~45-50°C – a stable fat that works well in skincare.
Beeswax melts at ~62-65°C – requires higher heat, useful for thickening balms.

Knowing these temperatures helps you prevent overheating, burning, or ingredient degradation.

7. Skin Feel & Absorption Rate: Sensory Considerations

For leave-on products like lotions or serums, how an ingredient feels on the skin is important.

Fast-absorbing oils (like Grapeseed Oil) feel lightweight.
Slow-absorbing butters (like beef tallow) create a richer, more occlusive layer.

The right balance ensures your product feels pleasant and works well for its intended use.

8. Identify Irritants and Allergens

Even safe ingredients can cause irritation depending on skin type.

Common irritants include:

Alcohols (e.g., Denatured Alcohol) – Can be drying.
Fragrances & Essential Oils – Some natural oils (like Citrus Oils) can be irritating.
Sulfates (e.g., Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) – Can strip the skin of natural moisture.

How to Avoid Reactions:

Patch test before full application.
Choose fragrance-free versions of products if you have sensitive skin.

9. Strengths & Weaknesses: The Fine Balance

Every ingredient has pros and cons, depending on how you use it.

For example:

Glycerin is a powerful humectant but can feel sticky in high concentrations.
Certain emulsifiers work well for thick creams but may be too heavy for lightweight serums.

Understanding these nuances helps you create balanced formulations.

10. How to Work With It: Ingredient Handling

Before using an ingredient, check:

Does it go in the oil or water phase?
Is it heat-sensitive? (For example, Vitamin C degrades with heat.)
Does it need pre-mixing? (Some powders must be dissolved before adding to a formula.)

Proper handling ensures your ingredients stay effective and your products remain stable.

11. Trust Your Gut Feeling

Beyond science and research, developing a connection with your skin is essential.

Do you enjoy the texture and scent of a product?
Does your skin react well over time?
Does the ingredient align with your values (e.g., ethical sourcing, sustainability)?

Building this awareness ensures you choose products that truly work for you, not just ones that sound good on paper.

12. Be Wary of Greenwashing

Many brands claim to be “clean” or “natural” while still using questionable ingredients. This is called greenwashing.

How to spot it:

Vague Claims – Words like “eco-friendly” without certifications.
Hidden Ingredients – A product may highlight Aloe Vera while still containing harsh preservatives.
Lack of Transparency – Brands that don’t list full ingredients should be questioned.

How to verify claims:

Look for third-party certifications like USDA Organic or EWG Verified.
Research ingredient lists beyond marketing claims.

INCI Name – Unlocking the Ingredient’s True Identity

When researching ingredients, you’ll see different names, such as common names or trade names. The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) name is the official name used worldwide, ensuring accuracy and consistency.

For example:

Common Name: Tallow
INCI Name: Bovine Fat

Researching skincare ingredients doesn’t have to be overwhelming. By understanding functions, solubility, pH, and safe usage, you can make informed decisions.