Part 2: How to Research Skincare and Wellness Ingredients Like a Pro

How to Research Skincare and Wellness Ingredients Like a Pro

When it comes to skincare and wellness, understanding the ingredients in your products is crucial. With so many brands using marketing terms like “clean,” “natural,” or “organic,” it can be challenging to separate fact from clever branding. Learning how to research ingredients will empower you to make informed choices about what you put on your skin and in your body. This guide will take you through a step-by-step process to research skincare and wellness ingredients like a pro, helping you cut through the noise and make the best choices for your health.

1. Start with the Ingredient List

The first step in evaluating a skincare or wellness product is to carefully review its ingredient list. Every product is legally required to list ingredients in descending order of concentration. This means that the first few ingredients make up the bulk of the product, while those listed toward the end are present in smaller amounts.

How to Analyse the Ingredient List Effectively:

  • Take Note of the First Five Ingredients – These are the primary components of the product.
  • Identify Unfamiliar Ingredients – If you don’t recognise an ingredient, highlight it for further investigation.
  • Watch for Potential Red Flags – Some ingredients may be harmful even in small amounts.

Example: If a moisturiser claims to be “Aloe Vera-based,” but Aloe Vera is listed near the bottom, it may not be present in a meaningful amount.

2. Use Reliable Ingredient Databases

Once you have identified ingredients you want to learn more about, turn to credible sources for research. Not all ingredient databases are created equal, so it’s important to use reliable ones that base their information on scientific research.

Top Ingredient Research Databases:

  • Environmental Working Group (EWG) Skin Deep Database – Rates ingredients based on safety and potential toxicity.
  • Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary – Provides expert insights on common skincare ingredients.
  • INCI Decoder – Breaks down ingredients in an easy-to-understand format.
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) – Offers scientific assessments of cosmetic ingredients.

These databases help determine whether an ingredient is beneficial, neutral, or potentially harmful.

Example: If you come across an ingredient like “Phenoxyethanol,” you can check these databases to see its safety rating and recommended usage concentration.

3. Understand Common Marketing Terms

Brands use buzzwords to attract customers, but many of these terms are misleading. Understanding what they truly mean can prevent you from falling for marketing gimmicks.

Decoding Popular Skincare Labels:

  • Natural – This term isn’t regulated, meaning a product can be labelled “natural” even if it contains synthetic chemicals.
  • Organic – In skincare, “organic” refers to ingredients grown without synthetic pesticides. Look for certifications like Australian Certified Organic (ACO).
  • Fragrance-Free – The product doesn’t contain synthetic fragrances but may still have naturally occurring scent compounds.
  • Hypoallergenic – There are no strict regulations for this term, so it doesn’t guarantee the product won’t cause a reaction.

Example: A product labelled as “hypoallergenic” may still contain essential oils that can trigger skin sensitivities.

4. Analyse Scientific Research and Studies

For those who want to go deeper, looking into peer-reviewed research is a great way to verify ingredient claims. Scientific studies can provide insights into how well an ingredient works and any potential side effects.

Where to Find Reliable Studies:

  • PubMed (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov) – A vast database of medical and dermatological studies.
  • Google Scholar (scholar.google.com) – Helps find academic papers on various skincare ingredients.
  • Clinical Trial Databases – Some government websites offer access to ongoing clinical trials and published results.

How to Interpret Studies:

  • Consider the Funding Source – Industry-funded studies may have biases.
  • Check the Sample Size – Studies with larger groups tend to be more reliable.
  • Look for Human Studies – Animal or lab-based studies may not translate directly to human skin.

Example: A study funded by a cosmetic brand claiming that their proprietary ingredient reduces wrinkles might be biased. Checking independent research on the same ingredient can give a more accurate picture.

5. Identify Potential Irritants and Allergens

Even if an ingredient is considered safe, it may not be suitable for your skin type. Some ingredients can cause irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin.

Common Irritants to Watch Out For:

  • Alcohols (e.g., denatured alcohol, SD alcohol 40) – Can be drying and irritating.
  • Fragrances & Essential Oils – Even natural fragrances can cause reactions.
  • Sulfates (e.g., Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) – Can strip the skin’s natural moisture barrier.
  • Preservatives (e.g., Parabens, Formaldehyde Releasers) – Some have been linked to potential health concerns.

How to Test for Irritants:

  • Patch Test – Apply a small amount of the product on your inner wrist or behind your ear and wait 24–48 hours.
  • Monitor for Redness or Itching – If irritation occurs, avoid the product.

Example: A “natural” moisturiser containing essential oils like lavender or citrus may still cause irritation for sensitive skin types.

6. Compare Ingredient Concentrations

Just because an ingredient is present doesn’t mean it’s effective. The concentration of active ingredients determines how beneficial they are.

Ingredient Concentration Guidelines:

  • Aloe Vera – Should be among the first ingredients listed for meaningful hydration.
  • Essential Oils – Should be under 2% to prevent irritation.
  • Plant Extracts (e.g., Green Tea, Chamomile) – Should be over 1% for antioxidant effects.
  • Shea Butter & Natural Oils – Ideally within the first five ingredients for deep hydration.

Example: If a vitamin C serum lists “Ascorbic Acid” toward the end, it may not contain enough to provide brightening benefits.

7. Be Wary of Greenwashing

Many brands use “clean beauty” claims as a marketing tactic, even if their products contain questionable ingredients. Greenwashing is when brands make misleading claims to appear more natural or eco-friendly than they actually are.

How to Spot Greenwashing:

  • Vague Claims – Words like “clean,” “safe,” or “eco-friendly” without certifications.
  • Hidden Ingredients – Some brands highlight a few natural ingredients while hiding synthetic ones.
  • No Transparency – A lack of full ingredient disclosure is a red flag.

How to Verify Claims:

  • Look for Third-Party Certifications – Examples include EWG Verified, Leaping Bunny (cruelty-free), and ACO (Australian Certified Organic).
  • Research the Brand’s Practices – Check their website for transparency in ingredient sourcing and formulation.

Example: A shampoo brand marketing itself as “sulphate-free” may still contain other harsh detergents like Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate.

Conclusion

Researching skincare and wellness ingredients doesn’t have to be overwhelming. By understanding ingredient lists, using reliable databases, decoding marketing terms, analysing scientific research, identifying irritants, checking ingredient concentrations, and being wary of greenwashing, you can make informed choices about the products you use.

Being proactive in your research ensures that you’re not just following trends but choosing skincare and wellness products that genuinely benefit your skin and health. The more informed you are, the better equipped you’ll be to navigate the ever-evolving world of beauty and wellness!